S2000 AP1 vs AP2: Which One Should You Buy?

The Honda S2000 is one of those cars that just keeps getting better with age. A 9,000-rpm four-cylinder, a six-speed that feels like a rifle bolt, 50:50 weight distribution, and a roof that drops in seconds. Honda only sold 66,860 of them in the US, and every year there are fewer clean ones left.

If you’re shopping, the first decision is the big one: AP1 or AP2? Here’s everything that actually changed, what each generation is like to live with, and what they’re selling for right now.

The quick answer

• Buy an AP1 (2000–2003) if you want the purest, most raw version: the 9,000-rpm redline, the quicker steering, and the car that built the legend.
• Buy an AP2 (2004–2009) if you want a better daily driver: more torque where you actually use it, calmer handling at the limit, and newer parts.
• Buy the best car you can afford, regardless of chassis code. A well-kept AP2 beats a thrashed AP1 every single time.

AP1 vs AP2 at a glance

	AP1 (2000–2003)	AP2 (2004–2009)
Engine	F20C, 2.0L	F22C1, 2.2L (longer stroke)
Peak power (US)	240 hp	~237 hp
Torque	153 lb-ft	~6% more
Fuel cut	9,000 rpm	~8,200 rpm
Wheels	16 x 6.5 front / 16 x 7.5 rear	17 x 7 front / 17 x 8.5 rear
Tires	205/55R16 / 225/50R16	215/45R17 / 245/40R17
Steering ratio	13.8:1	14.9:1 (slower)
Electronics	No stability control	Drive-by-wire and stability control from 2006

The engine: high-rev hero vs. torque upgrade

The AP1’s F20C is the headline act. It’s a 2.0-liter that makes 240 hp and doesn’t shut off until 9,000 rpm. Below about 6,000 rpm it’s polite. Above it, VTEC wakes up and the whole car changes personality. It’s one of the great engines of the era, and a big reason AP1 values sit above AP2 values.

The AP2’s F22C1 adds displacement with a longer stroke. Peak power stays roughly the same, but torque goes up about 6% and the redline drops. Honda also shortened the first five gear ratios. The result is a car that pulls harder in the rev range you actually use on the street, so you’re not wringing it out at every on-ramp to feel quick.

If you mostly drive on the street, the AP2 often feels faster. If you’re chasing that last 1,000 rpm of scream, it has to be an AP1.

Handling: the “snappy” reputation

The AP1 has a reputation for snap oversteer. It isn’t a myth. Quick steering, relatively small 16-inch tires and a setup that let the rear move around made it easy to catch out an inexperienced driver.

For the AP2, Honda tamed it:

• Wheels went up to 17 inches with wider tires front and rear.
• Front spring rate went up 6.7%, rear spring rate went down 10%.
• The rear sway bar got slightly thinner.
• Steering got slower, going from 13.8:1 to 14.9:1.

Translation: the AP2 is more neutral and more forgiving. The honest truth, though, is that old tires, a bad alignment and worn bushings cause more spins than chassis code does. Budget for a fresh set of good tires and an alignment on any S2000 you buy.

Year-by-year changes worth knowing

• 2000: Launch year. No options except the accessory hardtop.
• 2001: Minor updates: a radio clock and a wind deflector.
• 2002: The biggest AP1 update. Glass rear window (replacing the plastic one), better stereo, revised tail lights, a leather steering wheel, and an oil-jet bolt fix partway through the year.
• 2003: Last AP1. Basically unchanged.
• 2004: AP2 arrives with the 2.2L engine, new gearing, the 17-inch wheel and suspension changes, new bumpers, LED tail lights and new headlights.
• 2005: Essentially unchanged. Some owners consider it the sweet spot before electronics arrived.
• 2006: Drive-by-wire throttle and electronic stability control added.
• 2008–2009: The Club Racer (CR): a rear spoiler, about 99 lb removed, stiffer springs and bars, extra bracing and a shorter shifter. Very few were built, so they’re collector cars now.

If you want an AP1 to drive, 2002–2003 gets you the glass window and the late-production fixes. If you want an AP2 with a mechanical throttle, look at 2004–2005.

Common problems to check (both generations)

Get a pre-purchase inspection from someone who knows Hondas. Here’s what to look for:

• Oil consumption. These engines can use oil, and running one low at high rpm is how they die. Ask how often the owner tops it up and check the dipstick.
• Wheel bearings. Listen for a hum or growl that changes with speed. They’re not cheap to replace.
• Spark plugs backing out. Plugs can loosen over time, so they should be checked and torqued.
• Axle nuts loosening. Worth checking on any car with unknown history.
• AP1 clutch buzz. A buzzing noise on deceleration was addressed by a Honda service bulletin.
• AP1 valve retainers. These can crack after a mechanical over-rev (a missed shift into a low gear). Ask about money-shift history and listen for a ticky valvetrain.
• AP2 gearbox popping out of gear. Some AP2s jump out of 2nd, 4th or 6th. Test every gear under acceleration and deceleration.
• 2006+ dash bubbling. Cosmetic, but annoying and worth negotiating on.
• Crash and jacking damage. Look for mismatched paint, uneven panel gaps, curb-rashed wheels and crushed pinch welds from bad jacking.
• Old tires. Check the four-digit DOT date code. Tires more than six or seven years old need replacing no matter how much tread is left.

Bonus: a factory hardtop, especially a color-matched one, can add real money to a sale. If the car comes with one, that’s a plus.

What S2000s are selling for right now

S2000 prices climbed hard over the last decade and they’re still strong. Based on recent sales and listings from spring 2026:

Condition	What you’ll typically see
Higher-mileage driver (120k+ miles)	roughly $17,000–$25,000
Clean, well-kept driver (40k–100k miles)	roughly $25,000–$40,000
Very low-mileage or collector-grade	$45,000 up to $70,000+
Club Racer (CR)	Collector territory, well above standard cars

A few patterns:

• AP1s generally command a premium over AP2s in similar condition.
• Mileage is the single biggest price driver.
• Modified cars usually sell for less unless the parts are tasteful and reversible.
• Insurance on AP1s has climbed a lot, so get a quote before you buy.

Prices change fast. Treat these as a starting point and compare against current local listings and recent auction results.

So which should you buy?

Get the AP1 if:

• You want the 9,000-rpm F20C experience.
• The car is a weekend toy or a future collectible.
• You’re an experienced driver (or plan to learn at autocross first).

Get the AP2 if:

• It’ll see real street miles.
• You want more torque and a calmer chassis.
• You’d rather spend the AP1 premium on tires, maintenance and seat time.

Either way, buy the car, not the chassis code. Service records, no crash history and a dry, healthy engine are worth more than whether the headlights are AP1 or AP2.

What to budget after you buy

Even a clean S2000 deserves a refresh. Set aside money for:

• A set of quality performance tires (see our autocross tire guide)
• An alignment
• All fluids: oil, coolant, transmission, differential, brake
• Spark plugs and a valve adjustment check
• Brake pads and rotors if they’re original or unknown

That baseline service turns a “nice used car” into a car you can actually trust at 9,000 rpm.