Miata Mods Guide: The Best Upgrades for NA, NB and ND

The Miata might be the most modified car on the planet. That’s great news, because parts are everywhere. It’s also bad news, because there’s a lot of junk out there and a lot of people doing mods in the wrong order.

This guide covers the mods that actually matter, in the order that makes sense, plus generation-specific notes for the NA, NB and ND.

Quick refresher: which Miata do you have?

Generation	US years	Stock power
NA	1990–1997	116–133 hp
NB	1999–2005	140–142 hp
NC	2006–2015	2.0L, more power, heavier
ND1	2016–2018	155 hp
ND2	2019+	181 hp

The NA and NB share a lot of parts, including suspension mounting points, so most of the advice below applies to both. The ND is a different car with its own parts catalog.

Step 0: Maintenance (seriously)

The best “mod” for a 20- or 30-year-old Miata is making it healthy. Before you spend a dollar on upgrades:

• Change every fluid: oil, coolant, transmission, differential, brake and clutch
• Timing belt and water pump on NA/NB if there’s no record (a snapped belt will leave you stranded)
• Bushings and shocks, because 25-year-old rubber is toast
• Radiator, because the plastic end tanks get brittle

A tired Miata with fresh fluids, bushings and shocks will feel like a new car.

Step 1: Tires (the best bang for your buck)

Tires are the single biggest upgrade you can make. Old, hard or cheap tires will make even a perfect suspension feel bad.

• For the street: a quality max-performance summer tire in the stock size
• For autocross and track days: a 200-treadwear tire (see our autocross tire guide)
• Check the DOT date code. Tires older than six or seven years should go no matter how much tread they have.

Wheels: lighter wheels help, but buy them because you need a second set for track tires, not for looks alone. Classic Miata sizes are 14” and 15” on NA/NB; ND cars run 16” and 17”.

Step 2: Brakes (pads, fluid and lines)

You don’t need a big brake kit on a Miata. Start with:

• Performance brake pads matched to how you drive (street, autocross or track)
• High-temp brake fluid, flushed regularly if you track the car
• Stainless brake lines for a firmer pedal on older cars

That combo handles most track days on NA, NB and ND cars.

Step 3: Suspension (where Miatas come alive)

This is where you’ll feel the biggest change after tires. Your options, from mild to wild:

Shocks and springs. A matched set of quality shocks and lowering springs is the classic budget move. Flyin’ Miata, for example, sells a Koni-based suspension package for the NB.

Coilovers. Adjustable ride height and damping. Great for track use, but quality matters. A good shock-and-spring setup beats cheap no-name coilovers every time.

Sway bars. A bigger front bar (and sometimes rear) helps tune balance. Easy to install and cheap.

Alignment. After any suspension change, get a performance alignment. It’s the most overlooked part of every Miata build.

Don’t slam it. Too low and you run out of suspension travel, ruining the handling. Lower by a modest amount and focus on quality parts.

Step 4: Safety (before you go faster)

If you’re going to do track days or serious autocross, this comes before power:

• Roll bar for NA/NB convertibles. A proper bolt-in bar adds rollover protection and is required by many track day groups for convertibles. Check your event’s rules and make sure your helmet clears the bar with you sitting in the seat.
• Seats. Stock seats don’t hold you well. A fixed-back or supportive seat on the right mounts lets you sit lower, which also helps taller drivers fit under a roll bar.
• Helmet. A properly rated helmet for your club’s rules.

Step 5: Power (yes, finally)

Here’s the truth: intakes and exhausts on a naturally aspirated Miata mostly add sound, not speed. That’s fine if you want the noise. Just don’t expect a big difference.

Real power gains come from:

• Forced induction (turbo or supercharger kits) on NA/NB
• Engine swaps. The aftermarket supports swaps into Miatas, but that’s a big project, not a beginner mod.
• Tuning on ND cars, which responds to tuning and supporting mods

Do power last. More power on worn suspension, old tires and stock brakes is a recipe for a bad day.

Generation-specific notes

NA (1990–1997)

• Pop-up headlight motors can get lazy. Cleaning the contacts often fixes them.
• 1.6 cars have smaller brakes and a weaker rear differential than 1.8s. Many owners upgrade with 1.8 parts.
• Interior space is tight, so seats and steering wheel choices matter a lot for taller drivers.

NB (1999–2005)

• Check the front frame rails for rust before you buy parts. No mod matters if the chassis is rotten.
• 2001+ (NB2) has more power and a stiffer chassis, making it the best base of the early cars.
• Most NA suspension parts fit, so the used parts market is huge.

ND (2016+)

• ND1 vs ND2: the 2019 ND2 bumped power from 155 to 181 hp and the redline from 6,800 to 7,500 rpm.
• Common first mods: tires, brake pads, a front sway bar or suspension package, and seats for track use.
• Keep it simple. The ND is already a great car stock. Tires, brakes and alignment get you most of the way.

Mods we’d skip

• Cheap no-name coilovers. They ride badly and can fail.
• Fake carbon and body kits before the mechanical stuff is sorted.
• Stretched tires and extreme camber for looks. It hurts grip and wears tires.
• “Performance” chips and gadgets that promise big power with no tune.

The bottom line

The right order is: maintenance → tires → brakes → suspension → safety → power. Do it in that order and every dollar makes the car better. Skip ahead and you’ll end up with a loud Miata that’s slower than a stock one on good tires.

Still choosing your car? Read NA vs NB Miata: Which One Should You Buy?